Three questions for a Hyderabadi family

While in India recently, I had the opportunity to spend some time with my friends Hameed and Tejashvi and their two daughters, ages 10 and 12. We had a wonderful lunch at the aristocratically-decorated and North Indian inspired Rubaiyat restaurant and then took a stroll around Shilparamam, an arts and crafts village in Hyderabad. Hyderabad, located in South India, is the 4th largest city in India with a population of about 7 million. I’ve been traveling to Hyderabad for 10 years and have grown to love this city and it’s people. People from Hyderabad are known as Hyderabadi‘s and many assume that term also applies to their local dialect as well (there are 22 major Indian languages and more than 720 dialects). But in fact, the language spoken is called ‘Dakhini Urdu’ which arose as a language of the Deccan sultanate in around 1300 AD. I sat down with Hameed for a little bit of information about the city from his point of view.

J: Tell me a little about yourself.

H: Hyderabad has been our family base for more than twenty-five years. On a professional front, I’ve been associated with a multinational bank and my better half is a ‘Fashion Designer’. I have two daughters, our key to a happy and harmonious life. While studying in their 5th and 6th grades, they’re also honing their skills in professional badminton on a daily basis.

J: What is something someone should know about this area, about where you live?

H: I’m sure Google can get loads of responses when you type ‘Hyderabad’, but it cannot do justice on how historical, high-tech, culturally rich, varied and diverse this city is. The influence of British, French, Persian and many other cultures can still be seen around the city which recently completed its 428th birthday. Hyderabad has its sister city – Secunderabad - and together they are referred as ‘Twin Cities’. We still have separate railway stations in both Hyderabad and Secunderabad but one thing that binds these two cities is the world-famous cuisine. It’s unique for the amalgamation of Mughlai, Turkish, Persian, Arabic and local South Indian cuisines it brings to the plate. If I could highlight what sets our cuisine apart is its aroma, richness and taste.

These are the five things to check out when you’re visiting Hyderabad.

1. Historical Monuments: In and around Hyderabad, there are many monuments that date back to 1500s. For history lover, this is a gold mine. Golkonda Fort, Charminar, Chowmahalla Palace, Qutub Shahi Tombs, Mecca Masjid, Taramati-Baradari and City museum are the go-to places. The Falaknuma Palace which is now transformed into a 7-star hotel is a must visit to relish its food and witness how the nizam lived.

2. Local Food: The lip-smacking Biryani which is available in two varieties (Chicken, Mutton) is so loved that no event/function goes without it being as the main dish. Biryani preparation is an art and science by itself. Not everyone can get the taste right. Believe me there are numerous authentic restaurants in Hyderabad known for their Biryani. But each of them will have a different taste. Biryani is even available at 1:00 am and do not get surprised if you hear people eating Biryani at breakfast, lunch and dinner. Another important food item is the Naan (Indian Bread). ‘Munshi Naan’ at the Dabeerpura Road near Purani Haveli (situated in the old city) has been in the business of selling Naan since 1851. It’s one of the oldest establishments in Hyderabad and over the years, though the shape of the naan has changed, the 'formula' to cook is still the same. If you really want to experience local Hyderabad cuisine then ‘Jewel of Nizam’ would be the right choice. Please note you have to make a booking before you head out and be happy to spend at least 3 hours to complete the entire course - five course meal with 20 minutes break between every course.

3. Irani Chai (Tea): Irani chai is everyone’s daily lifeline here. If you’re not having at least one cup a day, you’re not a Hyderabadi. Irani chai is called so because of Iranians (Persians) who set up tea cafés here in the early 20th century. Every café that you come across serves hundreds of cups a day and the famous ones 1000 cups a day to its customers. Huge metal containers are used in which the decoction and milk are boiled separately for a very long time. To serve, the master artistically blends these two in a small cup. Irani chai is best to have alongside some crunchy Osmania biscuits. Grand Hotel at Abids is the oldest café which is still famous and thronged by locals every day.

4. Pearl Market: Hyderabad is famous for pearls and is in fact called “the City of Pearls” and it boasts the biggest market in pearls. During the 1900s this was initially the market for diamond and pearl jewellery. I must share a little history here about pearls. The pearl industry in Hyderabad flourished due to the patronage of the rulers (Nizams and Qutub Shahi kings) had towards this jewellery. They went on to setting up an entire industry here which has been going on for generations.  But please note you have to be careful from where you buy pearls, these are available in a range of $5 to $500. Unless you can figure out the difference you are good.

5. Art/Handicrafts: Bidriware is the craft that originated over four centuries ago and consists of a unique metalwork technique of inlaying silver within a blackened alloy of zinc and copper. The effect of the contrasting colours is striking. The technique is thought to have originated in Persia, but the use of zinc as the primary metal is an Indian concept. You can find this in any of the Government owned stores in Hyderabad. Kalamkari is an artisan textile work that involves printed cotton textiles, the ink is made from bamboo soaked in jaggery and water and is used to draw the contours; the colours come from vegetable and natural dyes. After the colours have been applied and dried, the fabric is washed. The result is a beautifully vivid painting. You can find wide variety in Kalamkari, from sarees, dress material and stoles. One can find this in any of the Government owned stores or any shopping centres.

J: What is something local that you like to eat?

H: Apart from Biryani, Haleem is the second most popular food for the locals. Haleem is available only in the month of Ramadan and people from different backgrounds make sure to have it during this time. Haleem is made of wheat, dry fruits, meat (goat meat, lamb, chicken), lentils and spices. The preparation starts in the morning and by 5 pm it is ready to eat. During the month of Ramadan, you’ll find Haleem in every corner of the city. But there are two restaurants that serve Haleem through out the year: Jewel of Nizam and Zaiqa-E-Hyderabad.

J: Tell me about a dream or goal you want to accomplish this year

H: Both my daughters are pursuing badminton professionally, this year our goal is to support them with advanced technical and physical training requirements. Teja is exploring jumping back in fashion design with some more urban, hip-hop influenced designs but using traditional Indian fabrics.