New or Old, Delhi is exciting
So what is the difference between New and Old Delhi? Like the blurry lines of most big cities, it's not so easy to understand and definitely muddy. Think Downtown vs Midtown, Manhattan vs Queens, New York City vs New York State and then add on the tri-state area to boot. The current capital of India is technically called New Delhi and this city was created by the British beginning in 1911. New Delhi is part of the National Capital Territory of Dehli (NCT) which is simply referred to as "Delhi" and which covers an area of some 570 square miles with more than 11 million people. Old Delhi is a separate area and part of NCT/Delhi (like New Delhi is). Old Delhi dates from the 1630's (though there were settlements in the area long before that) and was known then as Shahjahanabad (founded by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan). Old Delhi was the capital of the Mughal empire in India until the 1850's and the arrival of the British. While the geographic distinctions between the two can be slight, Old Dehli contains most of the ancient palaces and monuments, crowded streets and markets. New Delhi is more structured and planned, with wide boulevards and all three branches of the Indian government. Old or New, collecively and individually, they are a fascinating place to visit.
I've had the opportunity to visit Delhi a few times and, as expected, it's a big chaotic place, though it does not feel as hectic to me as some other big cities in India (like Bengaluru with it's horrific traffic). There are tons of things to do there and it's certainly worth some time on your India itinerary. The New Delhi part of India is a lot of pomp and circumstance with all of the government buildings and majestic boulevards. New Delhi contains most of the museums, upscale hotels and restaurants so it's a good place to base yourself;. Old Delhi is much more fascinating and colorful, giving you the feel of real India but on a larger scale. New Delhi is easy, Old Delhi is exciting!
Among the most interesting things to visit in any Indian city are the precolonial palaces, temples. mosques and other religious sites. Modern humans have lived on the Indian subcontinent for 75,000 years so the country is rich with archeologically and historically significant sites. While much of this history lies in various states of disrepair and visibility, the best preserved and most visited sites date from the Mughal empire, beginning around 1520. In Delhi, one of the most popular and majestic is Humayun's Tomb, a World Heritage Site. He was the second emperor of the Mughal era and this tomb was the first of the "garden tombs" of India, paving the way for the likes of the famous Taj Mahal. It's a surprisingly peaceful place in the middle of such a teaming city.
Pre-dating the Mughal empire is the stunning Qutab Minar, which was built in 1193 by Qutab-ud-din Aibak. Aibak was a former slave who rose in prominence and ultimately became a general who ruled over the Delhi Sultanate. This tower and complex dates from the first Muslim era and the grounds contain the fist mosque built in India. The tower serves as one of the first minarets in India and it tapers to a narrow 9 feet at the top. Each layer is covered with engravings and writings. The complex has been added to over the years and is an impressive site.
One of the other most famous sites in Old Dehli is the Jama Masjid Mosque with a courtyard which can hold up to 25.000 people. The Mosque was started in 1644 and was the last great architectural accomplishment of the Shah Jahan, builder of the Taj Mahal among other impressive sites. It's one of the largest mosques in India and still in use for Muslim prayers, "jama" in fact means Friday, a significant holy day. There was a light rain when we visited and it made the scene feel a bit more magical.
Beyond the sites and museums of Dehli, there is the actual city of 11 million people going about their daily lives in all types of circumstances. And like any city, there are a big difference in income and equality. Old Dehli contains some of the most congested and cobbled together streets of anywhere I have ever seen. But like all of India, the people are warm, kind, and so welcoming overall. One of the oldest, most comprehensive, and crowded markets in Old Delhi is Chandni Chowk which is a wild and wonderful mix of people, carts, cars, two-wheelers, shops and you-name-it! There are literally thousands of small shops down tiny alleys selling anything you can imagine. The name means "moonlight square" which sounds so peaceful but the canals and waterways which reflected the moonlight have long been replaced by pavement and electrical wires.
Close to the Chandni Chowk market you can find the main offices of the Salaam Baalak Trust. Salaam Baalak means roughly "salute the children" and this wonderful organization exists to help the more than 75,000 street and working children throughout Delhi. Most of these children were forced out of or intentionally left their family homes due to abuse or neglect and are now living on their own on the streets of the Capital. The Trust works to provide them shelter, medical services, nutrition, education, and love. The Trust offers several ways of engaging with the children including a "tour" led by them of the labyrinth of Old Dehli streets and an opportunity to spend some time with the kids in one of the several housing complexes. Like kids everywhere, these young people were full of energy and interest, especially of selfies. This was a very moving experience and I encourage anyone to participate and/or donate if you have the opportunity.
True to the diversity of India and keeping with the spirit of service, we also visited the Sikh Gurudwara Bangla Shahib. A gurudwara (meaning door to the guru) is a place of assembly and worship for the Sikh's and open to all people, regardless of faith or lack thereof. All gurudwaras serve free, daily vegetarian meals to anyone to wishes to receive and these meals are prepared by volunteers and supported through donations to the gurudwara. The Bangla Shahib gurudwara is one of the largest in Dehli and we had the opportunity to help prepare the meal and partake of it. While extremely crowded, it was a place of immense peace and spirituality.
As noted, Delhi is also a modern, cosmopolitan city offering all that world-class cities do - including one of the top restaurants in the world, India Accent. There are outposts in New York and London as well, but I've been lucky enough to experience two extravagantly delicious meals here in Delhi. The cuisine is definitely Indian but amped up with modern techniques, international influences, and served in bite sized portions. The tasting menu is an incredible value for the quantity and quality of the food. Service and atmosphere is on point and during one of my visits out meal moved from the dining room to the fountain terrace outdoors for dessert and after dinner drinks. Below is a montage of the dishes from my recent two hour lunch.
Beyond amazing food, Delhi is also home to several exciting design centers, featuring loads of local entrepreneurs and up-and-coming talent. One of the best known is the neighborhood of Hauz Khas Village. This small area, existing since medieval times, houses many art galleries, offbeat clothing, home goods, and other decorative shops and is quite hip and current. There are also many interesting restaurants within and near the village. Two shops of note are I Am Design for modern women's fashions and Nappa Dori for hip leather goods.. Shahpur Jat is a similar village and is quite close to Hauz Khas. A little challenging to find, a pedestrian street behind a power plant and parking lot, it will reward you with lots of wedding shops and other fashion brands. I was delighted to discover Kardo, an Indian menswear designer specializing in sustainable materials and humane working conditions. They sell in the US as well! Photos below from I Am Design and Kardo.
My stays in Delhi have always been in big, chain hotels and usually not very conveniently located for the city. On my last trip. I was based at the JW Marriott Aerocity by the airport. Wonderful property and very conveniently located for traveling in and out (just minutes from the airport), but with Delhi traffic not always as convenient into the city, though moreso for New Delhi.
I think people often overlook Delhi in favor of Agra or Jaipur but it's definitely worth a visit in its own right, and one could spend several days here easily. Thanks for traveling with me!
Comments