Let the good times roll ...

Sometimes, I love to travel by myself. The ability to do whatever you want without having to take into account the needs of others can be quite liberating. The end of 2022 and early 2023 were very hectic with house guests, holiday activities, and major work demands. I knew I needed to have a short break to recharge so I decided to spend a few days in New Orleans between Christmas and New Years Day. I needed some time away from washing dishes, walking dogs, and making decisions other than where to have my next meal or drink. I envisioned myself wiling away the afternoon drinking Sazeracs and philosophizing with the other soloists. Laissez les bon temps rouler!

Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral

I chose New Orleans for a couple of reasons: 1) it’s an easy non-stop flight from Washington, DC (where I live), 2) there’s a unique atmosphere and culture unlike anywhere else in the US, 3) I knew the weather would be warm(er) than most other quick and easy options, and 4) no car needed. It was a quick 3 night trip and I used American Airlines miles for the round trip airfare and Marriott Bonvoy points for a stay at the J.W. Marriott on Canal Street. The flight option was the easiest of decisions but I debated long and hard about the hotel. I’ve been to New Orleans many times and often stayed in the French Quarter so was familiar with that vibe but wanted something with a blend of character and luxurious amenities. The J.W. Marriott didn’t have tons of character but was close enough to the Quarter and offered a bit of the luxe and pampering I was seeking.

Christmas decor around the French Quarter

I landed about noon on Monday the 26th and, after a quick taxi and check in at the hotel, I headed over for a self-guided walking tour of the French Quarter. It’d been a few years since I’ve been a tourist in New Orleans (past trips has been for parties or weddings) and I really enjoyed reacquainting myself with the sights, sounds, and smells of the Quarter. It’s such a unique place with the blend of French, Spanish, and Caribbean/African influences and never disappoints. My self-guided tour brought me back to Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral (the oldest Catholic cathedral in the US). I was not able to get inside the Cathedral during my visit but Jackson Square was just hopping with people, dancers, tarot card readers, musicians and tons of other people celebrating the season and life in general. I absolutely avoided Café du Monde and their beignets but did take a quick stroll through the French Market and along the Mississippi River. A short stroll across the Quarter brought me to one of the oldest bars in the US (established in 1722), Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar. A quick beer outside on St. Phillip St. while soaking up the warm winter sun was just what the doctor ordered to start my rehabilitation.

Music in the French Quarter and the mighty Mississippi

Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop Bar

One of the beauties of solo travel is that it’s generally pretty easy to get into a restaurant if you are willing to eat at the bar. It can be a lot of fun if you open yourself up to talking to strangers. I’ve met so many wonderful and interesting people doing this very thing but, if it’s not your cup of tea, it’s really fine to just eat your meal in silence reading on your phone. People seated at a bar can be the most accommodating and forgiving people around. Luckily, I was able to bypass a really long line for tables at the Acme Oyster House and get an immediate seat at the bar. I ordered my first-ever Sazerac here (a cognac or whisky cocktail originating in New Orleans) and ordered their famous chargrilled oysters and my beloved fried shrimp po-boy sandwich. I had my first shrimp po-boy in New Orleans so many years ago and have always loved the simply dressed sandwich of fried shrimp on a French roll. Oddly it’s so simple but I’ve really never been able to find the same anywhere else. Gorged and delighted after this quintessential New Orleans meal, I plodded back to the hotel to unpack and settle in.

The Acme Oyster House

The last item on my already full day was a stop in at the Roosevelt Hotel to see their famous Christmas lights display. A hotel in this location dates back to 1893 and the tradition of Christmas decorations in its block long lobby is almost 100 years old. It was obvious that a lot of other people had the same idea as I did, the place was just packed with tourists checking out the lights. The hotel itself was beautiful and evocative of a 1930 and 40’s design. The Christmas lights were incredible with dozens of trees kitted out in while lights with boughs of lit greens crossing the long cross hall. Everyone was taking photos everywhere and really getting into the festive spirit. The main hotel bar, the Sazerac, was absolutely jam-packed but again the power of one allowed me to easily slide up to the bar and secure my spot. I ordered a few of my absolute favorite Grey Goose martinis and they were totally on point. The rest of the crowd could keep their candy-cane cocktails, which the bartenders told me they hated making anyway.

The Roosevelt Hotel and Sazerac Bar

Day two “started” with lunch at the famed Warehouse District restaurant Cochon, which was one of the few reservations I made on this trip (my intention was to keep this all kinda spontaneous - at least as spontaneous as I get). Set in an atmospheric restored warehouse, the focus is on Cajun Southern traditions and an emphasis on pork. I enjoyed a lovely 15-minute walk from my hotel to the restaurant and passed by the intriguing Piazza d’Italia on my way. Being a solo diner was again beneficial as the host offered me a seat at the chef’s counter – overlooking all of the action in the kitchen – which I readily accepted. Beyond how good the food was, I loved watching the separation of duties and absolute precision of the kitchen. Everyone was at their station and executing their role flawlessly under the masterful execution of the head chef. It was really like a deliciously choreographed dance. I received a “lagniappe” of house-made head cheese and crackers to accompany my (again) wood-fired oysters. My main lunch entrée was rabbit dumplings – an enticing skillet of tender rabbit, root vegetables rich gravy, and pillowy dumplings. Replace the rabbit with chicken and it tasted just like what my great-grandmother Grey would have made. After my second glass of wine, my waitress asked if I’d like another bottle – catching herself, she said, ”This is New Olean after all”.

Piazza d'Italie and around the Warehouse District

The wonderful restaurant Cochon

After a wonderfully boozy and fulfilling lunch (catching a theme here?), I wanted to add a little culture outside of the French Quarter to my agenda. The “arts district” was close to Cochon and I made my way over to the Ogden Museum of Southern Art after passing by Harmony Circle (which previously housed a monument to General Lee). The museum, founded in 1999, houses the largest and most comprehensive collection of Southern art. I’ve been to many, many art museums in my years and I’d put this high on my places to see – the Ogden does a remarkable job of highlighting the story behind the artists and the works of art. Zoom into some of the pictures below to read the descriptions and some of the really moving inspiration for the artwork. The “Belizaire and the Frey Children” series showing how the young, enslaved man was erased from the painting is really fascinating and heartbreaking.

Harmony Circle and the Ogden Museum of Souther Art

Belizaire and the Frey Children at the Ogden

After the Ogden I literally walked next door to the Confederate Memorial Hall Museum. This historic building houses one of the largest collections of Southern Civil War artifacts in the country. I’ll confess it was a little bit off putting to see all of the glory of the Confederacy in this very frozen in time museum (the way that things were displayed and memorialized). I did, however, learn a lot about Civil War medicine and provisions (from both sides) as well as the history of photography from the era. A quick in and out and then I headed to the National World War II Museum. I’d been to this mammoth museum before but appreciated the revisit of this important time in our shared history. The museum is so big and it was very crowed and hot so getting through all of the exhibits was a little challenging but I really appreciated learning a lot more about the Pacific Theater. The museum is essentially divided in two parts – European and Pacific Theaters – and goes into great detail about the operations and battles of each. I had much less familiarity with the Pacific theater and was intrigued/horrified to learn about the savagery of that part of the war.

National World War II Museum

I had an early dinner reservation (a hazard of last-minute planning) so enjoyed a quick glass of wine at the restaurant/bar in the museum. There was a light show starting there later and many people were queued up for that but luckily, I escaped all that madness in time to enjoy a unique dinner at Compere Lapin. This fantastic restaurant was in the lobby of the very nouveau lodging/workspace/boutique facility known as The Old No. 77 Hotel and Chandlery. It all felt so hip as folks came in for their bed and internet connection. As far as the restaurant, it seemed very au courant and was certainly packed. The main dining area was a good size with a huge bar and windows overlooking Tchoupitoulas Street. I mistakenly (or rightly?) ordered the Copper Bunny cocktail which came in an enormous and extremely heavy copper rabbit shaped vessel. I learned that these had been stolen repeatedly and often sold on eBay for many times their worth. The vodka/tequila/ginger/champagne drink was sweeter and simpler than I expected but the seafood hot-pot appetizer (with the snapper fish collar which I’d never had before) tasted just of the bayou via the Caribbean with its rich tomato and herb broth. My entrée of curried goat and gnocchi was also an absolute hit and one of the specialties of the restaurant as the chef, Nina Compton, is a native of Saint Lucia. My waiter was a great guide through the menu and also gave me several restaurant recommendations for the remainder of my trip. In keeping with my self-love theme, after dinner I had a great evening in my hotel room under the covers watching a movie!

Compere Lapin

My last full day in New Orleans started with a facial and massage at the small Spa Aria inside the Hotel Monteleone, just across the street from my hotel. The Monteleone, dating back to 1886 and a French Quarter classic, also had gorgeous Christmas decorations in the lobby. The spa was an oasis of serenely in the midst of the French Quarter and the treatments menu was comprehensive and reasonably priced. They were very accommodating to reschedule my two sessions to avoid a lengthy wait in between and the treatments were very good. It totally met the needs of this trip!

Christmas decor at the Monteleone

It was a beautiful and sunny warm day – no coat needed in late December here – and I opted to take a long walk along St. Charles Street after having another fabulous meal, this time at Herbsaint. Another Donald Link restaurant (he’s also the owner/chef at Cochon, among others), I again dined at the bar as the place was absolutely packed. The bartender couldn’t have been nicer and mixed a mean Martinez, a predecessor to the martini but with maraschino liquor added. I had the gumbo which was probably the best I’ve ever had and a seared tuna sandwich on olive bread. My long and slow lunch ended with a favorite after dinner drink, Calvados (a French apple-based brandy). I could really get used to eating (and drinking) like this all the time.

Herbsaint restaurant

Lafayette Sqaure and walking towards the Garden District

The rest of the afternoon was spent walking about 6 miles throughout the Garden District and along St. Charles Avenue. I avoided the famed streetcar (I needed the walk and it was also jam-packed) and it was interesting to see the variation and changes in the neighborhoods. I’d never been to the Garden District and now see what all the fuss is about. Quintessentially Southern with grand large streets, gorgeous lawns and beautiful mansions, I followed a self-guided walking tour and marveled at how peaceful and lovely it all was. As I passed Anne Rice’s house, I dreamed of being her millionaire vampire neighbor. Along the way, I popped into the men’s clothing store Vegas on Magazine Street for a little gift for myself.

The Garden District

After all that walking and the late, full lunch, I was not terribly hungry for a big dinner. I opted to try the famed French 75 Bar at Renaud’s Restaurant in the French Quarter. This old-school cocktail bar ranks high on many lists, including being named a top US bar by Esquire magazine and winning a coveted James Beard award for best bar program. Thinking it would be terribly crowded, I arrived as soon as it opened (to a small line at the door already) but easily nabbed a seat at the bar. I chatted with two really nice teachers from Ohio as we all bonded over French 75’s and an assortment of appetizers such as oysters, escargots, and deviled eggs. It was a really enjoyable end to another very long day.

French 75 Bar at Arnaud's

I sadly returned back to Washington the next morning but felt really refreshed and relaxed. I so enjoyed reacquainting myself with New Orleans, getting to see new sides of it, and having some fantastic meals and drinks. I could see this becoming an annual tradition.

Until next time….