Itinerary: Lancaster, PA
Updated: Feb 22, 2020
Mention Lancaster, PA and some of you immediately think of Pennsylvania’s Dutch/Amish country. Others may ask, where the heck is that? I knew where it was, having grown up close to that region and having ancestors who settled there, but I too had an Amish-vision, just in a bigger “city”. Well, Lancaster is not that at all! I spent a weekend there recently and was very pleasantly surprised. It was fun, hip, and happening and definitely worth a short visit – in conjunction with Pennsylvania Dutch country or on its own. It’s been called the “new Brooklyn” with James Beard award winning restaurants and a young and diverse population.
Lancaster is a small city of about 60,000 people in the South-Central area of Pennsylvania. It’s one of the oldest non-coastal towns in the US, dating back to the 1680’s and notable residents include President James Buchanan and abolitionist Thaddeus Stevens. Lancaster was the capital of the United States for one day (September 27, 1777) as well as the capital of Pennsylvania from 1799 until 1812. Its compact downtown is full of old-East-Coast-city charm with brick buildings and narrow streets. There are a lot of art galleries, museums, restaurants, bars, and boutiques to explore as well. You still get an authentic sense of its history but also see the adaptation its undergone to prepare for the future.
My short weekend visit was primarily for genealogy research so I did not get as much time to explore all the sites and experience the culture as I would have liked. Nonetheless, below are some of the places I visited and would recommend:
· Marriott at Penn Square – Our home base for the weekend, in the middle of town, modern with nice amenities. Penn Square and the Soldiers and Sailors Monument are right outside the front door.
· Shot and Bottle – Fun, relaxed bar and restaurant right in downtown. Inventive menu with a lively bar scene.
· Walking around town – Check out public art, galleries, restaurants and shops on King, Queen, Prince, and Lemon. Of special note are the Pennsylvania Guild of Craftsmen and Madcap & Co. on Queen Street.
· Coffee – The most excellent coffee for an early morning walk around town. Passenger Coffee was fantastic with a deep and rich flavor. Also, checkout Commonwealth on Queen
· Keys for the City – Local program that places pianos around town for passersby to enjoy and express their musical creativity. Saw, and heard, at least three – Penn Square, the transit center, and government complex.
· Central Market – Fresh since 1730 as their saying goes. Oldest farmer’s market in the US in a stunning building. Wide variety of traditional Pennsylvania Dutch foods as well as many more international offerings. I happened to visit on Harvest Breakfast day so the exterior grounds were festive with families, musicians, and food vendors.
· LancasterHistory – History center and museum just outside of the immediate downtown area. Includes the President James Buchanan home, Wheatland.
· Lititz – Small town about 9 miles north of Lancaster. Charming Lititz Spring Park and Train Station as well as Calkin’s Vine and the Branches store
· Thistle Finch Distillery - As cool as it gets. Excellent maker of vodka, gin, and rye in a fantastic old warehouse. Full bar with tasting menus and sales of their products. Try the Penn Square Rose Vodka, Market Alley Gin, and Pepper Rye.
· Plough – Inventive farm to table restaurant connected to the Marriott with a very active bar scene
· Gracie’s on Main – A bacon-lovers paradise located in the little hamlet of Leola, serving a very extensive menu with breakfast foods as a highlight. One of the top grilled cheese restaurants in the US. I had the grilled cheese and bacon jam!
· The Christmas Haus – Not located in Lancaster but in New Oxford, PA (on my way back to DC). A very fabulous shop of all things German Christmas. Every product is made in Germany and/or evokes some German holiday tradition.
Comments