It's a helluva town ....

New York, New York. The very name conjures up so many images: the big city, hustle and bustle, Broadway, skyscrapers, the list goes on. I always love visiting and since I live in Washington, DC it’s a pretty easy trip and I try to go as often as I can. The majority of the time, I take the Amtrak Acela train from Washington’s Union Station to Penn Station in Midtown, about a three-hour ride. The train is so convenient since you avoid all the hassle of dealing with airports, security, and taking taxis in and out of the city. Plus it’s relaxing and with free WiFi you can work or entertain yourself easily. We went in February 2022 for 5 nights to visit some friends, see a few shows and eat. All the best things to do there.

Bryant Park and the Bryant Park Grill

I am a Marriott loyalist and when we go to New York I don’t worry about staying in luxury hotels (like I do elsewhere). We generally stay in Midtown and use Marriott Bonvoy points so it’s often a Courtyard or something like that. In New York I find you are out and about so much and not spending a lot of time in your room so this is a case where I like to be a little more frugal so I can spend money elsewhere (usually on dining). On this trip we stayed at the AC Hotel New York Times Square (West 40th Street) which was fine enough and convenient for shows we were seeing and things we wanted to do. Though we did not try it, there is Spanish tapas restaurant (Boqueria) on the ground floor which would be convenient.

New York Public Library

We arrived on a Thursday and after dropping off our bags at the hotel (it was too early to check in) we headed to lunch. We had tickets to see an exhibit at the New York Public Library so we walked over to Bryant Park and snagged an outdoor spot at the Bryant Park Grill. The Grill is a pretty large restaurant with several inside seating spaces but it was a warm winter day and we enjoyed watching passersby in the park. A few Blackberry Brambles and a chicken Cobb salad and I was good to go! The Library is literally on the backside of the Grill and we easily made our 2:00 pm ticket to see the wonderful Polonsky Exhibit of the New York Public Library’s Treasures. While a mouthful of a name, the exhibit showcases some of the extraordinary items from the Library’s vast collection of over 56 million pieces. These really are treasures which span over 4,000 years of history and include: a copy of the Declaration of Independence, early opera recordings, Winnie the Pooh stuffed animals which inspired the story, and original Earth Day posters and Studio 54 drink tickets, to name a small few. This seems to be an ongoing exhibit and I’d definitely go back, it was really fascinating to see many of these rare items. It did require free timed entry tickets which are easy to get on the Library’s website. After the Library we walked over to the American Kennel Club Museum of the Dog, a small collection of rotating exhibits focused on our canine friends. A small and easy museum to walk through, we mostly looked at items related to English Pointers since we’ve grown to love that breed and several pieces reminded of us our dog Vivienne. To round out our full day, we had dinner at Atomix, a two Michelin-starred Korean-focused restaurant currently number 33 on the World’s Top 50 Restaurants list. We enjoyed the bar tasting experience, seated at a small bar with only room for 5 diners. Over the course of a few hours we had 8 small courses which were prepared at the bar by one of the chefs and each course was accompanied by a small serving of a cocktail or other drink made by the very entertaining bartender. Though quite high end, it was a very casual and relaxed environment and we had a really lovely time. An experience we will definitely remember for some time.

Museum of the Dog, Empire State Building, and Grand Central Station

Our wonderful bar tasting menu at Atomix

Our next day started with a late morning visit to the Museum of Arts and Design on Columbus Circle (this was to be the “trip of small museums”). MAD, as it’s known, is focused on craft, art, and design. We took in the Chris Schanck: Off-World exhibit which showcased the artist’s “otherworldly fusion of sculpture and furniture” as well as Jewelry Stories which highlighted jewelry as an artform. The furniture one was very interesting, abstract formations of familiar pieces, and this was a good way to spend an hour or so before lunch. We had a long lunch at Gallagher’s Steakhouse, one of the venerable old New York steakhouses. This 90-year old classic, with its famous meat locker in the front of the entrance, takes you back to an older age and a slower place. Classic martinis, bubbling hot French onion soup, and tender filet mignon made for a very satisfying (and nap inducing) lunch. Totally worth the time, expense, and calories. We later met one of our good friends for a drink – originally aiming for the Algonquin (which seemed to have some Covid-related closures of the bar and restaurant) – we pivoted to the Jane Doe Lounge, which definitely looked and felt like a New York local hangout. We had evening tickets to see Moulin Rouge at the Al Hirschfeld Theater. The show was fast-paced, bawdy, fun and deserving of its Tony awards. Not too serious and an enjoyable way to spend the evening. After the show, as we often do, we headed over to Chez Josephine. The Josephine Baker-inspired old-style Parisian bistro really jumps with post-show energy and is a Broadway tradition. The food and drinks are always good here and the crowd usually very entertaining.

Museum of Art and Design and Columbus Circle

Gallagher's Steakhouse

Saturday was to be a slower day after the two previous hectic ones and the late night after the theater. We had a leisurely morning and met our friend again for an exhibit at the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. This small museum housed one key exhibit, Reinvention & Restlessness: Fashion in the Nineties as well as pieces from its permanent collection. We did not see Tim Gunn while we were there. After the museum, we walked along the High Line park to where it terminates at the new Hudson Yards area. Hudson Yards is a new multi-use development with shopping, residential buildings, business offices, outdoor public spaces and arts venues. One significant structure is called The Vessel, a soaring spiral staircase and new tourist exhibit/landmark. Unfortunately, it’s been closed for tourists on the upper floors for fear of people committing suicide. We popped into The Shops at Hudson Yards for lunch at the Hudson Yards Grill for a hangover soothing burger and fries. A visit to the fun and funky Dylan’s Candy Bar sealed the deal with chocolate and treats to take home. Later that evening we took in another show, the absolutely incredible David Byrne’s American Utopia. The song and spoken word performance held the audience in rapt attention, heads bobbing and toes tapping. Sadly the show, called “may just be the best live show of all time”, ended in April 2022 but you can catch a recorded performance of it on Hulu, HBO or other services.

Lazy Saturday in New York

Feeling much more refreshed on Sunday, we had brunch at one of my favorite spots in New York, my beloved Rue 57. I have eaten at Rue 57 on every single trip I’ve ever taken to the city. This French bistro serves delicious drinks and generous portions in a classic Parisian setting with an Asian flair (think sushi). After lunch we met a friend for an afternoon at the Frick Collection in its temporary home on Madison Avenue. The Collection’s normal historic buildings are currently closed for renovation. The setting was disappointing and made the collection feel disjoined and unorganized. After spending time there, we made our way to the King Cole Bar in the St. Regis hotel. This classic luxury hotel bar houses a huge and intense painting by Maxfield Parrish, Old King Cole. The cocktails are expensive but flawlessly prepared, garnished, and served. A very civilized late afternoon break. Our final Broadway show of the weekend was SIX at the Brooks Atkinson Theater, the wives-of-Henry VIII-inspired girl band delight. Another Tony winning energetic and light-hearted show with amusing stories from each of Henry’s six ill-fated wives. A late dinner at the bustling LouLou rounded out another full day. Yes, another French themed meal, they are everywhere in New York.

Lazy Sunday in New York

Our last full day started with a visit to one of New York’s newest locations – Little Island. Built on the remains of the former Pier 54 (which was destroyed by Hurricane Sandy in 2012), this two-acre park features innovative architecture, dazzling views, and innovative programming for residents and visitors alike. Lunch was yet again at a French-themed New York classic, Balthazar, in SoHo. We sat outside on another warm day and enjoyed a lovely meal and conversation with an older New York couple and a French family. A classic New York experience. A little retail therapy occupied the rest of our afternoon with visits to some old favorites such as ABC Carpet and Home, Fishs Eddy, and Eataly. The last blowout of the trip was our extravagant and extraordinary meal at Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare. Not a French restaurant, it comes in at number 63 on the aforementioned World’s Top Restaurants list. This three Michelin-starred restaurant sits in the back of an unassuming grocery store near Hudson Yards, the entrance to it is right next to the tea and coffee aisle! This hard-to-get reservation featured a tasting menu focused on seafood and shellfish, which we enjoyed with the wine pairings option. We loved the sea urchin on brioche so much we had two of them! The service was flawless and we appreciated the pandemic-era spacing out of the tables and seating arrangements. It’s funny that you think you won’t get enough to eat with a tasting menu but you usually leave bursting at the seams, as we also did that night. A really great meal and highly entertaining experience.

Little Island and shopping in SoHo

Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare

Back to DC the following morning, we left New York feeling that we had tasted and experienced the best that she had to offer. Until next time Big Apple.