European Christmas Markets
Updated: Feb 22, 2020
The Christmas Markets of Europe are spectacular! You hear about them a lot and with good reason - they are so much fun and most definitely fill you with the holiday spirit. There is a real sense of community when you visit them, everyone is happy and celebrating the traditions of the season. Some of the happiness could also come from the hot mulled wine, which can really sneak up on you! You also feel the great weight of history in these big historic town squares surrounded by buildings, churches, and monuments from all ages. Knowing that these traditions have been in place for centuries reminds you of the goodness and continuity of humankind and that we are all really pretty similar at the end of the day.
Christmas markets are generally held from late November and throughout December, until at least Christmas or shortly thereafter. They’ve historically been associated with the four weeks of Advent. The markets originated in Germany and are very prevalent still in German-speaking countries, but have spread throughout Europe. Christmas markets have also begun to gain a foothold in the US and other countries but are not as large or culturally significant outside of Europe.
Like most traditions that are centuries old, the history is little murky. It’s believed that before there were true “Christmas markets” there were Winter or December markets, with mention of Vienna’s taking place around 1296. The Emperor granted shopkeepers the right to open their shops and sell their goods for a few days in December, with the objective of helping townspeople stock up on supplies for the winter. Over time this tradition spread to other cities, the number of days expanded, and a more festive air was established with food and gift vendors. By the mid-1300’s, these markets were established in Germany in cities such as Munich and Frankfurt. Dresden, Germany is believed to have the first true “Christmas” market in 1434 and over time all of the markets adopted that name.
Given the large number of Christmas markets around the world, it’s hard to determine which is the “best” or even the largest. Many cities have multiple markets and the markets have regional differences, particularly in food and music. So it really depends on what you like. As mentioned, Germany and Austria are where these markets originated so their major cities (Dresden, Frankfurt, Munich, Stuttgart, Salzburg, Vienna, etc.) all have very large and well-known markets. Eastern France (especially Strasbourg) and German-speaking Switzerland also have established markets. Additionally, Scandinavian and Eastern European countries (Czech Republic, Hungary) are home to large and entertaining markets. Regardless of where they are, all Christmas markets have common features – large Christmas trees, nativity scenes, entertainment such as singing and other performances, and many, many vendors selling all types of food, drink, and gifts. They are usually in town squares or other open spaces that can accommodate vendor stalls, entertainment, and lots of people.
I’ve been to a few US markets in New York, Philadelphia, and Washington, DC and also had the opportunity to visit several European Christmas markets in December 2018. Visiting the European markets was part of an organized tour by the Beekman 1802 company – titled “Into The Snow Forest”, one of their Trip of a Lifetime series trips. I’ve been on other Beekman Trips of a Lifetime (Cuba and India) and they really are fantastic! These trips include a wonderful mix of people, sites, culture, and unique local experiences. They always include several elements of the Beekman 1802 aesthetic which revolve around good food, farming/agriculture, history and culture, neighborliness and philanthropy. I would highly, highly recommend one of these tours. We visited the Czech Republic, Austria, and Germany on the trip and, while this blog and the trip were focused on the Christmas markets, I will include some other tidbits and recommendations here as well.
Our flight to Prague arrived while it was snowing and it was absolutely magical – really putting us in the Christmas spirit (unfortunately it was the only snow we would see on the trip). While Prague is thoroughly modern, you still feel a sense of the Soviet/communist history which lends an air of mystique to the city. English is fairly widely spoken but in some situations, like taxi drivers, it may be pretty limited – but enough to get you where you need to go. Several of us arrived before the official start of the Beekman tour and took advantage of a foodie tour through Taste of Prague. It was an absolute must and one of the highlights of the entire trip. Our guide was amazing and the tour included spots both high and low(er) end, local and international, traditional and contemporary. We had no clue that Prague was such a foodie city! I will spare you a review of Prague cultural sites (such as the Prague Castle) since you can read them most anywhere online, but do know that there are a fair amount of cultural and historical areas of interest in Prague.
See below for a few food scenes from the Prague Christmas and Taste of Prage food tour!
As far as the Christmas markets, there are primarily two in Prague, Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square, which are just a short walk from each other. There are several other smaller ones across the city, but these are the main two, with Old Town Square being the largest. Of the three Christmas markets in big cities we visited, I found the one in Prague to be the most fun. The crowd seemed more vibrant and jovial, there was a wide variety of food and drink, beautifully decorated trees everywhere, and loads of entertainment for kids. The stalls selling goods were less original than in the other cities, with many selling the same types of items (ceramics, toys, etc.) which looked like they were mass-produced elsewhere. The food was the highlight here too with wonderful grilled sausages and an amazing fried cheese called syr smazeny, served on bread and often with a bit of berry jam. So delicious! Another tasty treat was trdelnik (chimney) cake which is dough wrapped around a stick, coated in sugar and baked over open coals, the hole left when the stick is removed can be filled with chocolate or Nutella. Though not a traditional Czech dessert, it surely is popular and a sweet treat. The Czechs have their own version of a mulled wine (svarak) and a honey wine (medovina) which could be found everywhere, as well as world-famous Czech beers. While in the Czech Republic we also visited Cesky Krumlov, not for its Christmas market (though they did have a very small one), but to tour the beautiful castle and medieval town. It was a charming step back in time and well worth the trip.
Our next stop was Salzburg which is a beautiful city surrounded by mountains with the slow-moving Salzach river running through it. The birthplace of Mozart and now also famous for the movie The Sound of Music, the city center was named a UNESCO world-heritage site in 1996. Hohensalzburg fortress sits on a hilltop overlooking the city and the Alpine surroundings. The Salzburg Christmas market was my favorite and the most beautiful. Salzburg has many charming squares in the compact old city and they are separated by a number of arched portals and narrow streets. You can get turned around pretty easily but this also makes you feel somehow like you are inside a secret place. The market(s) spread out over several squares with the primary ones being around the Cathedral – it feels like one big party spilling out into several rooms. I really loved the vendors here and felt that they were more authentic and their offerings more interesting than the items in Prague, there was also much larger selection of true Christmas goodies and ornaments in particular. One of the most delightful experiences was dinner at St. Peter Stiftskulinarium, a restaurant dating back to 803 located within St. Peter’s Abbey. The food was great but it’s the over-the-top Christmas decorating that made this massive place a standout. Every room, nook, and cranny was covered in elegant and interesting Christmas and winter décor. Outside of Salzburg proper, there is a charming small Christmas market on the grounds of Hellbrunn Palace (and you can get in some good Sound of Music sightseeing on the way). Below are a few pictures from the market and restaurant.
We were fortunate enough to be in Salzburg for Saint Nicholas Day and the preceding Krampus Night (Krampusnacht). Krampus is a horned half-goat, half-demon figure who, during the Christmas season, punishes children who misbehave. The figure is highly associated with Saint Nicholas but is believed to have pre-Christian Alpine origins. While Saint Nicholas rewards well-behaved children, Krampus punishes them with gifts of coal and birch reeds. In many cities and towns there is also a Krampus run where young men dressed up in elaborate Krampus costumes run through the streets frightening children (and adults) and visiting shops for treats and schnapps. The squares were packed in anticipation of the night’s festivities which began with a short play in front of the cathedral featuring a family getting ready for Christmas with the arrival of both Saint Nicholas and several Krampus. Thankfully we were standing next to a couple with a young son and they helped translate for us. After the play, the run began and everyone had a blast trying to engage the dozens of Krampus scampering all around.
The Christmas market of Munich was the last on our list, and while still really amazing, was my least favorite of the three big ones we visited. Munich felt more like a big city than Prague and Salzburg and more urban, less charming. Like the other cities, there are multiple markets around Munich with the main one at the imposing Marienplatz. It’s beautiful with the towering Christmas tree framed by the cathedral and town hall. The market stalls here also had a large variety of goods and Christmas items with a heavy focus on wood-carved products in the Bavarian tradition. The mulled-wine (gluhwein) was the best here and is a must do for all of the markets – there’s nothing like it to warm you up! Around the square are a number of nice shops, department stores, beer halls, and restaurants of all stripes. Outside of Munich and also worth a visit is the town of Oberammergau, home of the famous once-a-decade Passion Play. The town had survived the plague fairly unscathed and pledged to put on this play every ten years as a show of thanks – and they have been doing it since 1633! Even if you can’t make it for the play, the town is worth a stop to learn about its history and see the charming painted wooden houses. Neuschwanstein Castle (which is the model for the Disney castle) is enchanting and also pretty close by.
The key to visiting the Christmas markets of Europe is planning and patience. There are a lot of great markets to visit and certainly many more than I have mentioned here. While they are generally similar, each will offer some regional variation of food, entertainment and other cultural aspects. Check the associated activities (like Krampus night) and what other performances may be taking place to know you are visiting on the right days. If you want to visit certain restaurants, reservations are advisable given the crowds. That’s also where the patience comes in – there are a lot of people who also want to visit the Christmas markets. While it’s not unbearably crowded, you will be waiting in lines from time to time (and in the cold) and sharing the space with lots of friends. Settle in and enjoy – it’s the Christmas season after all!
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